When I was seventeen, I headed west with my parents to tour California schools. The UCLA and Pepperdine campuses were beautiful, but the biggest takeaway of the trip was catching my first wave on a longboard in Malibu. I ended up writing an admissions essay about the experience and submitting it (ironically) to the land-locked University of Texas. My surfing career was over as swiftly as it began. But the experience stayed with me, and I often found myself daydreaming about what I decided was the most poetic of sports. Surfing is an almost perfect metaphor for life: all these years I’ve been trying to catch waves (in work, love, and life) and I’ve had some pretty amazing rides so far. I still believe the Big One is coming — all I have to do is recognize it before it’s too late. In a more literal sense, I’m looking forward to visiting the surf village of Sayulita this summer and hopefully standing up on a board again. I may never be a real surfer, but I can always think like one. Hang ten, y’all.
image sources: blogger lucy williams on boat from fashion me now, bulletin board from panchamama boutique in sayulita, outdoor sitting area at hotel escondido, girl with board from sundance beach, blue waves found via anthropologie, grass roof hut image from swandive, family dancing on beach from gypset travel, promotional art for the 1966 film The Endless Summer, girl with pink board found via pinterest, photo of jane birkin by jeau kirby, blue waves at bottom found via a well traveled woman
It’s never too late to surf! I just started about two years ago in the Texas Gulf, and it’s one of my favorite things to do now. Did you hear about the wave park that they’re building in Austin? That might be the final straw to finally pull us inland. For inspiration to prep for your trip, you should check out a book called “Barbarian Surf”, which just won a Pulitzer. It’s a real gem. Hope you have fun in Sayulita, it’s so beautiful there!
Likely By Sea
I am 63 years old and I still dream of surfing! My sweet husband even bought me a vintage surfboard. My only issue is that I never learned to swim! Guess that would have to come first. But I have a hankering just to hang with surfers and cheer them on. I watch surf movies and still dream of being Gidget like I did back in the 60s! Keep those dreams alive and never stop dreaming, even when you are 63!
That’s such a great way to think of it! I’ve always wanted to try surfing but the ocean also kind of terrifies me..
sam
http://www.samanthasuarez.com